In 2017, I heard of a remarkable mountain pass, Yangzi Diwan, which offers an alternative route that connects Spiti to Rupshu in Ladakh.
This pass is more than just a means of traversing from one area or valley to another; it demands a lengthy approach, involving numerous passes, streams, valleys, and an ultimately challenging climb. A challenge more than 6000 meters above sea level!
Having failed to complete this expedition back in 2021, we finally conquered this pass with our team this June! Now, I can confidently say that for those who are brave enough to embark on this trek, Yangzi Diwan, in its current form, stands as a testament—a sanctuary where one has to willingly surrender oneself to the unpredictable forces of nature. In fact, even labeling it as a trek feels like an understatement.
Yangzi Diwan transcends conventional trekking, it actually qualifies as an expedition. With the level of intricate planning, arduous execution, unforgiving terrain, specific technical requirements, and unparalleled difficulty, this expedition truly tests the limits of human exploration and showcases the great outdoors in all its rugged glory.
Having learnt from our attempt in July 2021, this time, we decided to start a month earlier. So, on June 7th 2023, after a hearty lunch at our friend Tashi Gatuk's house in Lallung, we began our long walk into Lingty Valley.
Day 1 took us to Tuti Top/Lallung La at 4620 meters, from where we descended to Zingu Nala to set up camp. Sheru ji, our most experienced hand, appeared slower than usual. But, considering it was his first trekking day of 2023 following a comfortable winter, we all gave him the benefit of doubt!
The next day, we continued our journey from Zingu Nala towards a ridge camp between Zingu La and Sisbang La. Mindful of the previous day's delays, we chose not to rush and allowed ourselves ample time to progress. Eventually, we reached the summit of Zingu La, and from there, a sweeping view of the formidable landscape unfolded before us, reminding us of the daunting terrain between Zingu La and Sisbang La that we had crossed back in 2021.
At our campsite, Sheru ji promptly fell asleep, snoring loudly under the warm sun. While we made the most of this much-deserved breather, sharing a meal before retreating to our tents, Faris and I struggled to find sleep and continued to think and plan for the challenges that lay ahead.
Concerned for Sheru ji’s wellbeing and safety, we made the decision for him and a slower porter to return to Lallung. We could not have ventured deeper on the 9th of June with him. Though his absence left an unmissable void, we felt determined to carry on and adapted our plan to our changing circumstances, moving on towards Sisbang La.
On 10th June, with a smaller team and trimmed load, we set out, determined to conquer the Lingty River. The manageable flow of the river encouraged us and we aimed to tackle this challenge swiftly. Memories of our intense July 2021 attempt lingered, reminding us of the river's unpredictable nature. Although the colder weather meant lower flows, we knew things could change rapidly. Leaving camp at 0800 hrs, we trekked uphill to a vast plateau, basking in the sun's warmth during a well-deserved break.
The narrow trail out of the gorge was precarious, but we were grateful for any trail at all. Recalling from 2021, our goal was to reach the opposite side and descend to Phiphuk to cross the Lingty. While contemplating our descent route, we noticed another Nala leading to the Lingty. Although steep near the river, the low flow tempted us to try this fresh alternative which was slightly downstream from our original plan.
By 1630 hrs, we descended to the sandy banks of the Lingty, contemplating crossing and heading upstream. However, with dusk approaching, we decided to camp there for the night. It turned out to be our best camp yet - sand, wood, the gentle river, and a warm atmosphere meant a pleasant night amid the Himalayas.
The next day began with a joyous river crossing with the Lingty flowing knee-deep. We reached Phiphuk on the right bank, a milestone we couldn't achieve in July 2021. Rigging a rope as a precaution, we trekked towards Chakshachan La through a bushy stream.
Our loads got stuck repeatedly in the thicket and hindered our progress. The porters suggested scrambling up a slope with a faint trail. Irritated but agreeing, we made it to the trail only for it to merge back with the stream after 20 minutes. Drizzling now, we decided to camp at the next suitable spot and continue towards Chakshachan La the following day. Finally, a beautiful grassy clearing greeted us - a perfect campsite for the night.
On the morning of 12th June, we woke up refreshed! Following the marked route, we traced a stream until we turned right and ascended slightly to reach Kuli La, a small pass. From its summit, a breathtaking sight greeted us – a green and fertile bowl surrounded by high passes and raging rivers, untouched by human presence. Once, villagers from Lallung journeyed here in search of their Yaks, but now, this sanctuary remained isolated.
Descending into the tranquil bowl, we took a break next to a clear stream, reenergizing ourselves. Moving forward, we followed a gentle stream deeper into this remote wilderness. The sight of a Lammergier soaring above reinforced the seclusion of the place.
Having studied the area beforehand, we knew the climb to Chakshachan La seemed manageable from Kuli La, yet uncertainty loomed over the descent due to potential ice and snow. We camped at 4950 meters, allowing time to prepare for the challenges ahead.
The next day we set out for Chakshachan La, skillfully navigating snowy patches along the way. Reaching the top by 1130 hrs, we were amazed to see how small it looked in the vast scheme of things. Descending through a steep Nala, we encountered snow and ice, but soon the Lingty River came into view. Thankfully, we found a passage down the left slope, offering relief.
As we relaxed by the river, we noticed its colour change from green to brown, reminding us of our initial fears about Himalayan rivers' unpredictability. Luckily, we crossed it just in time before it swelled. The flow was now 3-4 times what we saw at Phiphuk, but our timing couldn't have been better. Our camp by the river was a treat, especially knowing that such comforts would be scarce higher upstream. With gratitude for overcoming uncertainties, we cherished the peaceful afternoon, preparing for what lay ahead.
The morning of 16th June marked a defining moment in our expedition. In the early hours, around 0245 hrs, Faris and I hunkered down to switch into our rugged mountaineering boots and secure our trusty crampons. A pitch-black sky denied us the companionship of the moon’s glow, nudging us to depend on contour maps to chart our course.
As dawn began to break around 0440 hrs, the landscape gradually revealed itself, unveiling the massive Lingty glacier and its other recognizable features that we had only seen in pictures. Traversing steadily, we conquered the ascent and reached the summit top around 0800 hrs - a moment of jubilation tempered by the impending descent and the sun's strengthening heat!
Opting for a more secure spot on a reassuring ridge, we directed the porters to a location a short distance below. Crossing the icy slab was tense, as the rising warmth made us unsure about the ice’s stability. A stomach-clenching crack echoed around, but we gathered our determination, concentrating on the pressing need to reach solid ground.
At 1100 hrs, we found ourselves perched at a small, rocky yet lofty, ridge at 5850 meters. The ordeal of the ice lay behind us. Our team lay sprawled on rocks, fatigued but content, biding time until the clouds signaled the call to set up camp for the evening.
On 17th June, as the sun rose, we embarked on our descent from the high camp below Yangzi Diwan. Mindful of the sun's warming rays, and despite a delayed start, we pushed forward. Our journey led us to the Pare Chu River Valley, marking our transition from the unknown to familiarity and safety, practically signalling the completion of our remarkable adventure.
In the two days that followed, we crossed Parang La and descended to Chicham, where we were met with embraces and warm meals celebrating our triumphant return. The people of Chicham, who had supported us from the start, shared in our joy and celebrated our success. Their belief in our endeavor cemented our determination - and for them and their support, we are forever grateful.
I am filled with gratitude and deep respect for the remarkable porters who fearlessly embraced the unknown with us. They placed their trust in us and through every challenge that we encountered, they stood by our side without hesitation, displaying incredible strength and resilience.
To those of you who dream of embarking on your own journeys of discovery, I say embrace the unknown, challenge your limits, and let the spirit of adventure guide you. The world is such a vast canvas of uncharted territories waiting to be explored. Take that first step, and who knows what incredible experiences and personal growth await you on the other side.